Journey to Kashmir – A short trip with beautiful memories.

Intensifying the beauty of Himalayas in the northernmost part of India, Kashmir valley is an apt place to witness nature in its own form. Surrounded by the snow-capped mountains, the implausible beauty of Kashmir leaves an everlasting impression on one’s mind. There are a number of reasons to satisfy the above heading; ranging from the waterfront gardens, the Chinar trees, awe-inspiring lakes and the sumptuous weather. The people over here are very polite and are known for their hospitality. It is said that the people of Kashmir welcome everyone with a sense of unity and immense brotherhood. People in Kashmir are a little bit introverted but the hospitality one will receive here is awe inspiring. Such people can only be found in ‘Heaven’, like Kashmir.

         The unparalleled alpine beauty of the mountain ranges and the waterfalls flowing along are undoubtedly a breathtaking experience. Owing to its scenic beauty and naturally created sites, Kashmir is a perfect pick to cherish the real beauty of nature in its own form. Soaking our journey in a warm cup of Kahwa Tea, while indulging in the varied landscapes of Kashmir through a gushing streams cutting across the park that keeps you company while you gaze at the white Himalayan range.

                                  Colourful Shikara floating on the Dal Lake.   

An unplanned journey to Naranag - As per our itinerary, we were supposed to go to see the beautiful, much happening tourist destination - Sonamarg. Due to the ongoing Amarnath Yatra, routes were blocked and diverted for general people.  So we went to Naranag valley, an offbeat tourist destination. Naranag (or Nara Nag) is a tourist village of Ganderbal district, Jammu and Kashmir, India. It is located around 8 km from Kangan, 6 km upstream from the Sind River.

Noted for its scenic meadows, lakes and mountains, the village lies at the left bank of the Wangath river, which is a tributary of the Sindh River. The Naranag temple is the main attraction and this site consists of a cluster of temples facing each other at a distance of about 200 meters. Historians say that the temple is dedicated to Lord Shiva and was built by Lalitaditya Muktapida, of the Kayastha Naga Karkota Dynasty in the 8th century AD. It is believed that the king Awantivarman paid a visit and donated a pedestal for bathing at Bhutsher. It is also believed to be dedicated to the ancient Nagas. Hence, the name "Naranag". It was built by the Naga Karkotas, who are said to be Hindu Kashmiri Kayasthas of the Naga sect, known for their reverence of serpents. They used to stay here and do their sadhanas.

Dilapidated Shiva temple and Sindh river in Naranag valley.  

We were fortunate that destiny had landed us here. The first and foremost picturesque landscape of the Naranag valley, lush green alpines surrounded on the hills with free flow of the pristine stream of the Sindh river, imprinted our mind and heart. The beautiful scenic ambience and inhaling pure air made us intoxicated in the valley. It would be injustice if I did not mention the beautiful saying of Emperor Jahangir, who once said about Kashmir: "Agar Firdaws ba roy-i zamin ast, hamin ast-u hamin ast-u hamin ast,” meaning, “If there is Paradise on earth, it is this, it is this, it is this." We witnessed the purest form of water - the elixir of life and sitting on the stone felt meditative for a while and time flew by.

While walking through the temple premises, we found a small square water tank or "jal - kund" which is popularly known as "Draupdi Kund". Some five-six small children were sitting there along with their school bags. All were enoying the natural beauty of the surrounding environ and playing with water coming from "hathi-mukh". I went there to just chit-chat with them. They were carefree and roaming here and there. When I asked if they are coming from school then they kept their mouth shut but suddenly laughed at me seeing each other’s face. Their laughs gave me the life's vital lesson to Cherish and enjoy your present moment. They saw off me by waiving their hands and I moved forward towards water stream.

 Smiling school kids enjoying the sunshine day. 

                                  Draupdi Kund in Naranag Valley. 

       Dusk was knocking the door of the long day. We half-heartedly, made a move from this godly place. We found that there were some tribal families residing hillside in their small woooden make shift huts. It was told that they basically belong to the Gujjar-Bakarwal nomads community. The Gujjar-Bakarwals are a mostly - muslim nomadic tribe based in the Pir Panjal and Himalayan mountains of South Asia. They are traditionally, and still mainly, goatherds and shepherds. They reside in the entire Kashmir region between India and Pakistan, and in the Nuristan province of Afghanistan. 

Seeing one such tribal family, we desired to interact with them. They were currently dwelling in Naranag valley in Kangan. This was made possible only due to Mr. Majid, ENVIS Coordinator & Sr. Scientist at Department of Environment, Ecology and Remote Sensing, (DoEERS) Government of J&K. The introduction started with the beautiful smile by a small girl named Ulfat (name changed). Her mother was inside the wood clad hut. We asked for permission to see the house from inside. We were warmly welcomed by her mother who was cooking Roti and Noon Chai on clay hearth or 'mitti ka chulha'. Noon Chai or Kashmiri Noon Chai, is a traditional tea from the land of Kashmir. This tea is pink in colour and has a distinct taste to it, very different from the teas we usually have. Noon chai is made from special tea leaves, milk and salt, and is cooked in a Kashmiri Samovar (specially designed utensils). It's a kind of supper for the evening - Roti and Noon Chai.

A muddy floor was covered with cotton carpet having embroidery of Kashmiri thread work. All over the carpet, chinar leaves were embossed with colorful threads. She also offered us to have some Roti and Noon Chai but we politely declined as we were already late and had to returned to Srinagar the same evening. We will never forget the smiling faces of both the mother and girl and their heart winning hospitality in their own kingdom. I also took some pictures of the hut and their whole world contained in the small hut. This gives us the lesson to learn that for true happiness and contentment you don't need big sprawling bungalows, cars and five star cuisines. Happiness and prosperity resides in small things.

                                                   Some Unforgettable moments of my life! 

Happy Face of Valley

                              Tribal women cooking roti and noon-chai for supper

While returning from the Naranag valley we were accompanied by our ENVIS staff. Mr. Gauhar, Programme Officer in ENVIS Hub at DoEERS, Government of J&K narrated a beautiful story of Poetess Habba Khatoon. Habba Khatoon, the nightingale of Kashmir, was a great poetess who rose from humble beginnings and became the queen in 1570 A.D. She married the King Yusuf Shah Chak. As Gauhar explained, "Habba Khatoon was not simply decorative - a mere joy to the eye. She had real qualities of sharp intellect and imagination." Habba Khatoon suffered a lot as her husband Yosuf Shah was imprisoned by the Mughal King. She suffered quietly. During her days of solitude, she roamed in the valley and sung many poems in agony and through which she expressed her pain and grief. Her poetry describes her first encounter with Chak, her beloved husband.

"Bara kiny vucchnamai

gara kamy hovnasai

zara zara thovnamai

chhu me baale tammana"

Meaning:

He gazed at me through the door

Wonder who showed him where I lived!

And I ached with love in every limb

Forever a young girl I am in desire

"Dil nyith ratytham goshe

vwolo myaani poshe madano"

Meaning:

You stole my heart and stole away

Come back, my lover of flowers.

Habba pined away in an abode next to the Jhelum, where she finally lay to rest. It was told that the whole of Kashmir wept when they heard of Habba Khatoon’s death; no smoke came out of the houses on that tragic day. Habba Khatoon had risen as a luminous moon in the firmament of Kashmir’s history. Thank you Gauhar for narrating a soulful love story which left us with a memorable journey of civilization, love and humankind.

How this amazing journey happened and beautiful story created?

For the purpose of attaining freedom in a world of nature, man must use knowledge to build in collaboration with nature a better environment. To defend and improve the human environment for present and future generations has become an imperative goal for mankind, a goal to be pursued together with, and in harmony with, the established and fundamental goals of peace and of worldwide economic and social development.

The environment movement has evolved new awareness of man for harmony towards nature and towards man. The movement calls for conservation of nature and protection of environment. In this regard, Green Skill Development Programme (GSDP), an innovative initiative in the Green Skilling sector, is a brainchild of Dr. Anandi Subramanian, Principal Advisor (retd.) in the Ministry of Environment, Forest and Climate Change, Government of India, New Delhi. Across the country, it is slowly taking its shape and ready for mass movement. In the same journey, people in Kashmir are also looking forward to join this national movement for protection of environment such as the lakes, forests, valleys and the heritage of mankind. This will also provide skilling, livelihood and employment in these sectors and also for dying handicraft willow work and Kashmiri Dastkari work of local artisans. 

I want to wrap this chapter of the journey by saying "You must be the Change you wish to see in the world."

-         Kumar Rajnish